Graphics Programs General Discussion & Help (read opening)
#1
Posted 10 November 2004 - 03:24 PM
-Silo
Update 17/6/05
Topics have been merged. Please specify which program you need help with when posting, or outline your problem clearly if it applies to both or all programs. - Agatio
#2
Posted 10 November 2004 - 04:08 PM
Andross, on the other hand, is the real pro here, or at least a guy with skills good enough to compete in the workforce.
#3
Posted 10 November 2004 - 07:17 PM
#4
Posted 11 November 2004 - 11:00 AM
#5
Posted 11 November 2004 - 11:52 AM
2. (Optional, depending on the effect you want.) Desaturate the original layer as well. Then, take the now-empty new layer and take two fairly similar colors (like a dull brownish yellow and a medium creamy brown, as one example) and render clouds. Two shades of gray would work for concrete. Set the layer's opacity until you can just make out the details of the layer beneath it without too much trouble. Merge the layers.
3. Render lighting effects. Different lighting effects work here, but I found an off-white spotlight with mostly default settings to work best. Then go to the texture channel drop-menu and select the channel you made before. Play around with the height setting (and perhaps other settings if you see fit) until you get something that looks just about right. You might also want to fade the effect to 90% opacity and do a 0.5 pixel Gaussian blur if the lighting effects are too sharp.
Edit: If you want to give it a rough-chiseled stone look, make another new channel (after all the previous steps were taken). Use black and white as you colors (not that you can use color in channels either way, but there are still the gray shades). Render clouds, then difference clouds, then noise.
The settings for noise should be 3.7 to 4%, Gaussian, monochromatic. Then render difference clouds again. A lot. Really. Like 40 times (guesstimated). To speed it up, press and Ctrl and mash on the "f" key, after rendering the difference clouds once.
Then go back to your layer. Render lighting effects again with pretty much the same settings. This time, however, use the new channel you made, and make a the height setting a little bit higher (if it was 35 before, about 45 would be reasonable, to give an example).
(Optional) Lastly, do the noise effect again, with the same settings. Then fade the noise to about 30% opacity, dissolve mode. This'll give it a worn-out look.
Edit 2: Here is the final result. I did it to PDM's liquifier test picture thingy.
#6
Posted 11 November 2004 - 04:45 PM
#7
Posted 11 November 2004 - 05:36 PM
Start with a square (in pixels as untis with an even number for the dimensions to make the optional part easier) that has either a white or black background.
1. Filter --> Render --> Fibers. Use the default settings.
2. Edit --> Transform --> Rotate 90° CW.
3. Filter --> Render --> Fibers. Use the same settings, but click on Randomize.
4. Edit --> Fade Fibers. Bring its opacity to 50%.
5. Filter --> Distort --> Pinch. Bring the value up as high as it goes.
6. Filter --> Distort --> Twirl. Set it to 180° rotation.
You can call that finished and continue to edit it how you like, or you can polish it off.
1. View --> New Guide. Here is why an even number of pixels makes it easy. Divide it the dimension by 2 and put that in.
2. View --> New Guide. Same as before, except you need to select the other direction (like if you did horizontal, you now need to do vertical).
3. Use the Elliptical Marquee tool and put the cursor so that it sits exactly where the two guides meet. Press and hold both the Shift and Alt keys at the same time and drag the selection out until it's just a fair bit short of the edge of the swirl.
4. Select --> Inverse.
5. Filter --> Blur --> Radial Blur. Set the quality to best, the amount to 2 and the type to spin.
Deselect and you're done.
#8
Posted 11 November 2004 - 06:08 PM
view>>toolbars>>then click layer palette>>then click background layer
now you'll be able to use floodfill and such ^.~
#10
Posted 14 November 2004 - 12:40 AM
#11
Posted 15 November 2004 - 11:43 AM
That's helped me quite a bit...
I used to save it so it flattened and then reload it.
#15
Posted 15 November 2004 - 04:24 PM
#16
Posted 18 November 2004 - 02:40 AM
#17
Posted 20 November 2004 - 01:00 AM
People are just plain stupid. There isn't a 'click n' get a masterpiece' button guitarman, so get used to it. APS requires a use of filters, brushing, and image adjustments in order to get nice effects.
#18
Posted 20 November 2004 - 01:04 AM
Anyways....
#19
Posted 20 November 2004 - 08:50 AM
BTW, did you like what I did with the first Photoshop effect you posted?
#21
Posted 20 November 2004 - 08:07 PM
How do you get the matrix look? I want to do it with a different set of colors.
<_<
#22
Posted 20 November 2004 - 08:12 PM
As for the two effects in my sig and in my avatar, that's a trade secret.
#23
Posted 20 November 2004 - 09:15 PM
#24
Posted 20 November 2004 - 11:49 PM
Tachyon: No it isn't you lil' wanker :lol:
http://www.bluesfear...rame.php?tid=32
#25
Posted 21 November 2004 - 06:19 AM
Still, the T in my avatar is original and I might or might not tell how to make it. (I doubt anyone would really care either way, though.)
#26
Posted 21 November 2004 - 10:15 PM
#27
Posted 21 November 2004 - 10:29 PM
*Goes off to poke an old Hindu guy in the red dot on his forehead.*
#28
Posted 23 November 2004 - 09:04 AM
Just to keep it real, can someone show a good way (but not the best) to use the Fiber filter, along with other filters?
#29
Posted 23 November 2004 - 11:45 AM
I recall a curtain effect tutorial somewhere (I believe it's planet-photoshop.com). I payed little attention to it, but you might like to try it.
#30
Posted 25 November 2004 - 10:53 PM
#31
Posted 26 November 2004 - 10:23 AM
#32
Posted 02 December 2004 - 07:06 AM
I mean, I have APS and fireworks, is there really a need for PSP?
#33
Posted 04 December 2004 - 08:04 PM
#34
Posted 04 December 2004 - 09:19 PM
#35
Posted 06 December 2004 - 07:26 PM
1. First, there's the outlining of the figure. It took me hours to outline her before my computer's hard drive decided to have a meltdown. Now I'm left with the original sketch once again. On the plus side, it is cleaned up, with no shading and a simple outline that I would have to, otherwise, tediously re-sketch onto the computer. Is there any way around this?
2. My character is encased in a vial of sorts, surrounded by a greenish, bubbling liquid. I want the substance to appear translucent, but I don't want the color so overpowering as to mask up my character.
#36
Posted 06 December 2004 - 08:00 PM
If so, use the magic wand tool with resistance on around 10.
#37
Posted 06 December 2004 - 09:39 PM
Kuraikitsune, on Dec 7 2004, 02:26 AM, said:
1. First, there's the outlining of the figure. It took me hours to outline her before my computer's hard drive decided to have a meltdown. Now I'm left with the original sketch once again. On the plus side, it is cleaned up, with no shading and a simple outline that I would have to, otherwise, tediously re-sketch onto the computer. Is there any way around this?
2. My character is encased in a vial of sorts, surrounded by a greenish, bubbling liquid. I want the substance to appear translucent, but I don't want the color so overpowering as to mask up my character.
1) May we see the sketch?
2) Do you use a tablet? If not, then you're going to have a lot of trouble. Consider buying one if you wish to continue to do CG art in APS. You may also find Adobe Illustrator more useful. I here it's better with freehand drawing, or vector drawings. I haven't used it, so I don't particularly know.
3) Make a new layer and select it. Draw an oval selection around the character, leaving a good deal of padding. Make the foreground and background be slightly different green shades Feather your selection by 20-50. Go to Filter>Render>Clouds. Then do Filter>Distort>Wave. 5 generators, whatever else you want, but don't make he wave outlandish or too 'tiny.' Then go to Edit>Fade Wave. Lower opacity to 40-50. Repeat, but change the wave settings each time. Hold Ctrl, and click on this layer. Go to Select>Modify>Contract. Do it enough so that the selection is only a bit inside the character. Now feather by about 20, and delete. Change the layer's opacity and blend mode and see how this works. Don't be afraid to experiment though. This may not work well, so you may be better off finding your own technique.
^This is assuming you're going for a smokey type of container, like a wispy aura.
#38
Posted 06 December 2004 - 11:00 PM
#39
Posted 07 December 2004 - 04:56 AM
#40
Posted 07 December 2004 - 07:41 PM
For the bubbles, make a new layer. Make a thin (perhaps 2-3 pixles), ring-shaped (with an inner diameter of maybe 10 pixels) selection and use a darkish blue foreground-to-transparent linear gradient (read on for more info about gradients), normal mode, 100% opacity. Drag it from the bottom up. Do a Gaussian blur (just enough to make it fade out a bit). Now, fill in the selection, so the selection is now a circle and not a ring.
Transform the selection so you get a little, but fat, oval sitting close to the top of the ring. Use the gradient tool, with white as your foreground color. Set the gradient to "Foreground to Transparent", linear gradient, normal mode, 80% opacity, and make sure "dither" and "transparency" are checked. Click near the top of the oval selection and drag it straight down near the bottom.
Copy the layer a few times, move the bubbles around where you want them, and merge the copied layers. Make sure it's under the liquid layer, but over the character layer. You may choose to liquefy the bubbles a bit to match the character.
Sorry for the sloppiness, but I'm kinda in a hurry and I jumped around changing a few things as I went along. If you can't figure it out, PM me and I'll post a rephrased verison.
#41
Posted 09 December 2004 - 08:21 AM
#42
Posted 09 December 2004 - 06:21 PM
Memories Remain, on Dec 9 2004, 03:21 PM, said:
Ha! What farce! Not true at all. PSP has different presets, but it doesn't mean APS can't copy what they do. Anyone who has a decent experience with APS would know how to copy an effect done in PSP.
#43
Posted 09 December 2004 - 09:04 PM
Comparing PSP to APS is like comparing WordPerfect to MS Word. The only reason the former is still around is because it's a notch cheaper than the latter.
#44
Posted 11 December 2004 - 04:00 PM
#45
Posted 11 December 2004 - 05:47 PM
Take it with a grain of salt.
#46
Posted 11 December 2004 - 06:05 PM
So, do you know an easy way to colour eyes? I've just been using the paintbrush thing on a low opacity and colouring them by hand.
#47
Posted 11 December 2004 - 08:20 PM
Then press and hold the [Shift] key. This'll allow you to select the other iris. Then press the [Alt] key and select the pupils. This'll remove the selection from the pupils.
After that, press [Ctrl] + [B], and play around with the settings.
#48
Posted 11 December 2004 - 10:36 PM
#49
Posted 12 December 2004 - 06:40 AM
My best guess is something like this.
(BTW, it would be nice to hear a "thank you" for Andross and me [and anyone else that contributes] from time to time.)
#50
Posted 12 December 2004 - 10:01 AM
Tachyon360, on Dec 11 2004, 11:20 PM, said:
Then press and hold the [Shift] key. This'll allow you to select the other iris. Then press the [Alt] key and select the pupils. This'll remove the selection from the pupils.
After that, press [Ctrl] + [B], and play around with the settings.
Thank ya very much.
Venus_Man1... If you have an image, go to Image>Adjustments and then Color Balance. If you fool around with the colour balance then you can make a picture more of one colour.
#52
Posted 13 December 2004 - 10:07 AM
#53
Posted 13 December 2004 - 11:50 AM
#54
Posted 13 December 2004 - 12:43 PM
Venus_Man1, on Dec 13 2004, 12:07 PM, said:
BTW, feel free to use the pic I made.
#55
Posted 13 December 2004 - 12:56 PM
#56
Posted 14 December 2004 - 06:19 PM
Tachyon360, on Dec 10 2004, 04:04 AM, said:
Actually, Word Perfect (the recent version) has some things that are better than word, like not making the screen cluttered with a randomly appearing sidepanel and paper clip assistant :!:
But this isn't the place to discuss that, so, yes, APS > PSP. PSP is nice if you're just a gfx hobbyist really, as the $100 pricetag is relatively nice.
#58
Posted 15 December 2004 - 01:18 AM
#59
Posted 15 December 2004 - 06:02 AM
www.wantedfonts.com
They are the 2 best sites IMO.
#60
Posted 18 December 2004 - 02:58 PM
my brother got psp for me, its beter than paint right? :P
#61
Posted 20 December 2004 - 11:07 AM
just fill the first layer with black brushes, and the second layer with white brushes. then set the blending mode to soft light. make the next layer black, again at soft light. continue this way till you have around 9 layers. then add a render (first cut it out), and blend it a little. now merge all layers, and go to color balance, make the color you want. do another color balance, and again the color you want. now add text with some blending option (make sure to keep the bevel is 0). and at a quote.
done :unsure:
#62
Posted 20 December 2004 - 01:42 PM
#65
Posted 21 December 2004 - 03:30 AM
#66
Posted 21 December 2004 - 09:05 AM
#67
Posted 21 December 2004 - 09:30 PM
#68
Posted 22 December 2004 - 08:50 AM
when you are on your text layer, press the 'f' button and go to blending options.
- Drop shadow
- Inner Shadow
- Bevel and Emboss (change the 'Size' to 0)
- Stroke (1px in black)
then give your text color, and voila ^_^
#69
Posted 23 December 2004 - 09:42 AM
That is a cool effect!
#71
Posted 25 December 2004 - 02:59 AM
RobinG said:
done
#75
Posted 26 December 2004 - 06:55 AM
Venus_Man1, on Dec 26 2004, 04:10 AM, said:
Me? Nope not yet. I haven't started using brush effects yet. After I learn how to smoothen the image that will be my next job. =)
Ofcourse the brushes are mainly used to make the grunge effect which can look really awesome. Need to learn about that too. =)
#76
Posted 27 December 2004 - 06:25 AM
but I got complaints the render is 2 big :P
#79
Posted 02 January 2005 - 08:12 AM
Nice job,mate.
Smoothing is :Bring the picture nice ,not blur,i think
#82
Posted 04 January 2005 - 08:49 AM
EDIT: Please be more constructive of your posts, or you will recieve a warning.
-Silo
#83
Posted 04 January 2005 - 10:46 PM
Anyways, does anyone know how to get a better effect from cutout, it never gives me enough detail.
#84
Posted 14 January 2005 - 12:34 AM
#87
Posted 18 January 2005 - 08:02 AM
Piers diamondberg master, on Jan 5 2005, 04:46 AM, said:
ok, for the best results with a cutout, go to: Filter > Extract.
then you can zoom in on the parts you want to cut out, or don't zoom if you want to cut out the whole image. on you right side, you can select the size of your "Pencil", now hold Ctrl, while moving slowly around the edges of your render. at some parts, the green line will go to the lines automatic, so you won't have to use glasses, or do it very exact. now, when you went around the whole image, select the paint bucket, now click inside your selection. if you did it right, the render is now blue. and now just click ok.
you can remove the small pieces of bg, which weren't deleted, with your eraser or lasso tool (zoom in for this).
this way you can cut out renders very precisely, and still quite easy.
#88
Posted 20 January 2005 - 03:58 PM
Tachyon360, on Nov 10 2004, 03:08 PM, said:
your funny, you say Im not pro yet your the one helping everyone with all there photoshop questions :P
#90
Posted 21 January 2005 - 05:45 PM
http://share.studio....Product.asp?p=2
LOTS of downloads for APS.
Great for brushes!
#92
Posted 29 January 2005 - 09:21 AM
Anyway, a question: How do you create the effect of "seaweed" type stuff? Ref: gsninja's sig. It's so cool.
#93 Guest_KaFiePoo_*
Posted 03 February 2005 - 12:05 AM
how do you make an abstract effect??
Do I start of with a picture first or like... anything from a brush?
And also how do I make it a shiny effect??
#94
Posted 03 February 2005 - 02:44 PM
#95
Posted 06 February 2005 - 04:13 AM
Hey, i paste in a picture but i can't get access to the buttons top right all the time. whats up with that?
#96
Posted 06 February 2005 - 04:36 AM
#97
Posted 09 February 2005 - 03:50 PM
#98 Guest_Default_*
Posted 18 February 2005 - 06:49 PM
I want to get an effect like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/justdave1987/TechSig01_final.png
Any help would be appreciated.
#101
Posted 19 February 2005 - 07:22 PM
I made this one today. Quite proud of it. What y'all think?
#102
Posted 19 February 2005 - 07:28 PM
#104
Posted 27 February 2005 - 06:22 PM
And damn man, you gotta fix those jaggies.
#105
Posted 28 February 2005 - 06:50 PM
#106
Posted 28 February 2005 - 10:51 PM
Edit:
http://img67.exs.cx/img67/691/post110811095325594aj.pnghttp://img67.exs.cx/img67/8305/post110811095325712ma.png
Those jaggies were the size of Mount Everest. I did the best I could in a minute or two's time, complete with transparent background (though I don't think it'll show in IE).
#107
Posted 11 April 2005 - 03:54 PM
I'm trying to make one of those signatures that have a render character from a video game, anime, etc., sticking out of the little rectangular box of a signature; like this. The twist is I'm using this kind of effect on it.
My problem is that I want the effect to stay inside the signature, and not out on the transparent layer. Anyone got any guesses on this?
#108
Posted 11 April 2005 - 05:05 PM
Just make a selection of the transparent area around your sig, make a new layer mask showing everything, make sure the layer mask and not the layer is selected for editing, and fill it with black.
Plain old ImageReady animation, showing only one rain layer per frame, and that's that.
#109
Posted 11 April 2005 - 05:21 PM
EDIT: ^Ignore me there.
Anyway, do you have to do the layer mask for each individual layer or just for the one that's hiding under them all?
#110
Posted 11 April 2005 - 05:42 PM
Just select the layer you want to mask, Edit --> Add Layer Mask --> Reveal All. Then follow the rest of the steps I posted above. It's as simple as that.
#111
Posted 11 April 2005 - 06:52 PM
http://img147.echo.cx/img147/3413/atomsknaotasignaturefinal8am.gif
EDIT: Alright, I have another question, which may raise interesting discussion in the topic.
What would be a practical way of making an image that's all .JPEG-retarded look in good quality and condition? My way is to use Filter>Noise>Despeckle, and then Filter>Sharpen>Unsharp Mask. Any thoughts?
#113
Posted 12 April 2005 - 07:42 PM
#114
Posted 12 April 2005 - 07:43 PM
#115
Posted 12 April 2005 - 08:31 PM
Crimson Barrel Knight, on Apr 12 2005, 08:42 PM, said:
It would depend on specifically what's wrong with it. There are so many tools and techniques at your disposal that you could literally write a book about it all. Needless to say, I know only so much.
A good idea would be to post the picture, so anyone willing can assess what needs to be done.
#116
Posted 12 April 2005 - 08:46 PM
Well, in any case, lemme just describe an example. You know those crappy MS Paint images when you save them as .JPEG, and it looks all pixelated? That's what I'm talking about.
#117
Posted 13 April 2005 - 04:15 AM
Second of all, what exactly are you trying to do? You want to get rid of the jagginess and pixellation? If that's the case, do a 0.4 pixel Gaussian blur, and then make the image smaller in size.
#118
Posted 16 April 2005 - 06:41 AM
I have yet another question. I've been reading some tutorials on grunge brushes. I have created my own, don't worry, but, the thing is, I haven't figured out how to take them out and use them. I know it's a rather dumb question, but I really need to use one.
#119
Posted 17 April 2005 - 10:45 AM
#120
Posted 17 April 2005 - 12:30 PM
But that's solved, anyway. I just had to look in the list of brushes and their sizes. They were at the bottom of the list.
#121
Posted 17 April 2005 - 08:11 PM
http://www.idigitalemotion.com/tutorials/guest/lighting/7.jpg
#122
Posted 18 April 2005 - 05:13 AM
Remember the Wave filter technique Andross was so proudly mentioning a lot, about a month or so ago? Well, make a squiggly line, and then do what Andross said, but don't fade it quite as much as he said. Then, when that's done, make a new layer, take a small, irregular brush, and drop some dots here and there.
#123
Posted 18 April 2005 - 01:52 PM
#124
Posted 18 April 2005 - 05:48 PM
From there, keep each layer hidden except for the original layer (which should be at the very bottom) and the layer corresponding to the frame you're working with. Use the eraser tool and erase the parts of the equalizer you want blank for each frame. To keep it from looking newbish, make sure that you make each frame is only a fair amount different from the previous, so it moves smoothly, rather than jump around like crazy.
#125
Posted 25 April 2005 - 08:14 AM
I did the 'ol
-Create layer from background
-Stroke/inside/1 px
-Saved it as jpg (best quality)
And then the godamm thing does this? Anyone know why?
EDIT: ooops. Simple Mistake. Fixed it.
#126
Posted 25 April 2005 - 02:40 PM
How many photoshop versions are between 7.0 and CS, and what are they?
#127
Posted 25 April 2005 - 04:18 PM
And didn't you leave just yesterday =/ ?
#129
Posted 25 April 2005 - 04:27 PM
Anyway, this is eaily something you could have googled =/ .
#130
Posted 25 April 2005 - 04:29 PM
the 2.0 was released in October, I think...
#131
Posted 25 April 2005 - 06:37 PM
Then, roughly around the time Photoshop 7 was released, Adobe figured they'd make watered-down Photoshop for home users on a budget, and called it Photoshop Elements. That's up to v3.x right now.
Then around the time Photoshop Elements 2.x was released, roughly around the time Photoshop CS was released, Adobe further watered down Photoshop and added a slew of simplistic album organization features, and called it Photoshop Album. That's up to version 2.x right now.
#132
Posted 28 April 2005 - 09:13 PM
#133
Posted 29 April 2005 - 08:48 AM
#134
Posted 29 April 2005 - 03:26 PM
Warez is pretty much illegal to discuss on the web (and it's probably noted in the rules), so you're actually going to have to figure it out on your own like Tachyon said.
If your Photoshop copy is legal
Contact Adobe by phone. You're supposed to do that if you have problems activating it. Either that or make sure you are properly connected to the internet when activating, ie, open your browser (in the case you have dial-up usually).
#135
Posted 10 May 2005 - 05:51 AM
*runs*
Seriously, Im getting alot better at APS, and Im 99% self taught ;)
I ask a few questions here and there, but besdies that, everything i can do, I taught myself how to do it. :D
I'm so happy.
If' anyone would like to see what work I've been able to come up with, check out my dA thingo.
---
Q: Should I be getting new brushes? I've never really bothered...
#136
Posted 10 May 2005 - 06:59 AM
Save the .abr file, then open it with photoshop.
brushes tab > right click the arrow > load brushes.
#137
Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:41 AM
I said should I. Not how do I.
Anyone can work that out for themselves...
Re-iterating, if I want to be good with APS, should I get more brush styles, or am I wasting my time?
#138
Posted 10 May 2005 - 08:01 AM
#139
Posted 10 May 2005 - 04:12 PM
-Blood Brushes
-Abstract Brushes
-Grunge Brushes
-Tech Brushes
-Atmospheric Brushes
#140
Posted 11 May 2005 - 02:05 AM
And yes, brushes are a very important part of graphics and design as they can greatly improve regular images.
#141
Posted 11 May 2005 - 03:42 AM
#142
Posted 11 May 2005 - 06:19 AM
Memories Remain, on May 10 2005, 06:51 AM, said:
*runs*
Seriously, Im getting alot better at APS, and Im 99% self taught ^_^
I ask a few questions here and there, but besdies that, everything i can do, I taught myself how to do it. :lol:
I'm so happy.
If' anyone would like to see what work I've been able to come up with, check out my dA thingo.
---
Q: Should I be getting new brushes? I've never really bothered...
excuse me but i do have a legal copy! >=(
how do you make 3d images?
#143
Posted 11 May 2005 - 06:34 AM
- Cinema 4D
- 3D Studio Max
- Maya
- Terragen
- Bryce 3D
- Lightwave
Also, Adobe Illustrator CS has some 3D options available.
#144
Posted 11 May 2005 - 10:25 PM
#146
Posted 18 May 2005 - 03:15 PM
2. Wait for the little context menu to pop up.
3. Select the pencil tool.
Yay!
#149
Posted 26 May 2005 - 12:30 AM
and coloring it, covering the lines with clear ones and things like that to become a picture
#150
Posted 26 May 2005 - 01:02 AM
And then a program like Painter 7 is probably better for this, but I'm no expert.
#151
Posted 26 May 2005 - 05:10 AM
This is a very good site for tuts (this link is already on the tuts page).
if you want tuts for coloring in Ps scroll down a bit.
#153
Posted 28 May 2005 - 07:15 AM
And Agatio, Painter IX is already out. Painter is better for painting things from scratch. Photoshop is better for tracing and coloring drawings.
Side note: That drawing up there looks like you used a crappy digital camera with poor lighting and not a scanner.
#154
Posted 28 May 2005 - 07:46 AM
which's better? the superblade pro or painter IX? or maybe i should buy both
#155
Posted 28 May 2005 - 08:08 AM
#156
Posted 28 May 2005 - 10:24 PM
#157
Posted 30 May 2005 - 06:15 AM
As for SuperBlade Pro (made by Flaming Pear), it's aimed at mostly a different demographic. SBP is a Photoshop plugin that makes designing web and print graphics easier and offers some features that would be difficult to do with Photoshop by hand. It's pretty handy, IMO.
The Painter line from Corel is all about digital paint. Painter IX underwent the most radical changes yet, getting an Adobe-like interface with complete reorganization of the paints and brushes, among many other, smaller things. If you decide to get Painter IX, a tablet with a pressure-sensitive pen is an absolute necessity, because the paint physics in Painter are designed around such a tablet.
#158
Posted 30 May 2005 - 06:19 AM
Quote
Erm, what the hell are you talking about? I said 9, IX = 9, I know that, that's why I said 9 =/ .
#159
Posted 30 May 2005 - 08:10 AM
#160
Posted 30 May 2005 - 09:08 PM
#161
Posted 31 May 2005 - 06:04 PM
And as for which one you should get, it depends on what you want to do and what your budget is. SuperBladePro and Painter are two different things entirely.
#162
Posted 31 May 2005 - 09:23 PM
</illegal>
#163
Posted 31 May 2005 - 09:26 PM
#165
Posted 01 June 2005 - 04:11 AM
#166
Posted 01 June 2005 - 04:39 PM
angelchii, on Jun 1 2005, 12:16 AM, said:
what does the painter do?
Two other things worth mentioning:
-It's a good idea to read a few posts back, so you know what's going on. Your question about Painter has already been answered.
-Please, for the love of God, learn how to type legibly. This isn't IM or IRC, where posts come flying every second. This is a forum. You have time. Use it.
#167
Posted 01 June 2005 - 09:58 PM
#168
Posted 02 June 2005 - 01:15 PM
Actions can be a big time-saver and convenience, but I personally don't like them too much. Same with styles and swatches. I just can't seem to get into the habit of using them, I tend to put my own twist on effects developed by other's (so Actions would be inconvinient in that sense), and recording my own is too much of a hassle for anything but the most frequent things I use (yes, I'm that lazy).
#171
Posted 24 June 2005 - 12:34 AM
what did he used to make these pictures? --> http://www.gaiaonlin...c.php?t=8298645
#172
Posted 24 June 2005 - 02:09 AM
#173
Posted 24 June 2005 - 04:17 AM
drawing pad? is that a piece of paper or am i just late on the news?
#174
Posted 27 June 2005 - 09:19 AM
He probably used a tablet program, possibly Illustrator - most definitely not Photoshop (99% sure). Basically, pick up a tablet if you want to do better free-hand drawing on the PC (not sure what software will come with it, but if Illustrator supports tablet stuff, it might be a consideration).
#175
Posted 27 June 2005 - 12:47 PM
#176 Guest_LumerianImmortal64_*
Posted 06 July 2005 - 03:37 PM
#177
Posted 06 July 2005 - 05:35 PM
Create your object on its own layer. Right click the frame and select "create motion tween". Then, instert a keyframe about 20 frames ahead (on the same layer), and put your object where you want it to be in 20 frames time. Then the object will smoothly move from its start point to its finishing point over the space of 20 frames. You can also use the ease option for smoother movement. Also, when tweening, make sure the tweened object is the only thing on that particular layer.
Hope that helped.
#178
Posted 22 August 2005 - 04:53 PM
Andross, on Jun 27 2005, 10:19 AM, said:
He probably used a tablet program, possibly Illustrator - most definitely not Photoshop (99% sure). Basically, pick up a tablet if you want to do better free-hand drawing on the PC (not sure what software will come with it, but if Illustrator supports tablet stuff, it might be a consideration).
I'm 100% sure that wasn't Photoshop and about 80% sure it's not Illustrator (he'd have to have mad skillz for it to look like that in Illustrator). I'm quite certain it wasn't *any* Adobe or Macromedia product, for that matter.
I believe he's either got some great talent with real-life pencils and watercolors, or he used Painter. Judging by how unnaturally regular and smooth the strokes are, he's most likely using Painter, at least partly.
#179
Posted 18 September 2005 - 11:05 AM
I read a tutorial on adding movie clips to images. When I got as far as opening the movie in ImageReady, all there was was one frame with a black screen. I've tried everything, even putting the whole thing in, when I only need just a select scene from the clip.
First of all, how can I fix this? Second, what's the better type of video file to open in ImageReady?
#180
Posted 18 April 2006 - 12:04 AM
anyway how do you make a colored drawing into a more CG like colored one?
#181
Posted 15 November 2006 - 02:52 AM
On my school computers every time you load up Photoshop it is back to default settings, menu in same place, black and white colours selected etc.
How do they do that?
#182
Posted 10 January 2007 - 02:13 PM
I just noticed that the problem occurs in paint too, any idea how to solve this problem?
#183
Posted 10 January 2007 - 04:10 PM
#184
Posted 12 January 2007 - 03:09 PM
Thanks anyway. :)
#185
Posted 12 January 2007 - 04:09 PM
Try changing your colour settings.
Edit >> Colour Settings.
Mine are set to this:
Settings: Noth America General Purpose 2
RGP: sRPG IEC61966-2.1
CMYK: U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2
Gray: Dot Gain 20%
Spot: Dot Gain 20%.
In color management, all are set to Preserve Embedded Profiles.
Hope this helps.
#186
Posted 14 January 2008 - 11:20 PM
#187
Posted 15 January 2008 - 02:11 PM
Also anyone can make plugins for Photoshop, yu just need to know how to code them.
#188
Posted 15 January 2008 - 05:04 PM
But, CS3 IS fancy.
#189
Posted 15 January 2008 - 05:54 PM
http://i10.tinypic.com/8azso5d.png
I've tried Paint Shop Pro, Photoshop, Paint.net, Gimp and Open canvas; none of them have a way to make lines smooth.
#190
Posted 28 September 2008 - 11:41 AM
Icy, on Jan 15 2008, 05:54 PM, said:
http://i10.tinypic.com/8azso5d.png
I've tried Paint Shop Pro, Photoshop, Paint.net, Gimp and Open canvas; none of them have a way to make lines smooth.
How much did your art tablet cost? Also what size is it? (planning to get one)
EDIT:
:) Sorry... didn't see the date...
#192
Posted 02 December 2008 - 04:03 PM
Temporary colour. Some parts still need to be done and that ****.
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9636/swordcz1.png
It's got some lighting going on too mind you.